Christmas in July: Circular Needles

Several months ago when the dollar was weaker and I was ridiculously besotted with getting knitting supplies via eBay and other sites, I ordered circular knitting needles. And other stuff. Tita Lulu was coming home from the US with a balikbayan box.

Finally, these arrived last Wednesday the 16th:


Addi Turbo Premiums (2.0mm, 2.5mm, 3.0mm, 3.5mm, 4.0mm, 4.5mm -- all in 100cm except for the 3.0mm which were 80cm). [I actually ordered those first, but ended up buying 80cm sizes in local yarn shop Dreams because I was too impatient (2.0mm, 2.5mm, 3.0mm, 3.25mm, 3.75mm, 4.0mm, 4.5mm, 5.0mm, 6.0mm & 6.5mm). Fortunately their prices were roughly the same, about USD 7.50 each on the average.] I actually have several projects on the needles and am glad I have extras because I tend to use sizes 2.0mm-4.0mm a lot. These Addis I got on eBay from a UK seller in a six-pack so the price was irresistible. My first eBay experience, and a positive one, thank goodness.


Knitpicks fixed circular knitting needles (2.0mm, 2.25mm, 2.5mm, 3.0mm, 3.25mm, 3.5mm -- in 80cm) from Knitpicks.com. I got these because I couldn't afford the Knitpicks Options interchangeable needles and cables set. I heard about them from Knitters' Review. Something about being pointier than Addis. Someone said something like, "Addis are this shade of lethal. Knitpicks are lethal!" Check out the ff. picture (Addi on the top left, Knitpicks on the bottom right):


I think the Knitpicks would work really well for lace, but for other yarns people like Addis because they don't end up splitting the ply too much. But I think they'd knit pretty fast! And on the whole, are cheaper on a retail basis in the US. Addis fetch up to USD 18 for retail in some places.

And because these were so affordable (well, except for the 2.5mm which I got from Dreams), I got two Milwards 3.0mm, 40cm long from Carolina's Megamall.


These Milwards are roughly only 16" long. They're a British brand, Henry Milward & Sons (Studley, Warwickshire, England). Unfortunately with these needles stitches can bunch up where the cables meet the metal. Also please note that they are similar to Boye needles that have that angle at the base. An advantage of this is that stitches don't slide out. I plan to use these to practice the Cat Bordhi two-circular needle knitting method for socks.

And from my cousin Rosie Fe, a kindergarten teacher in Edmonton:


I know... it looks like overkill. I nearly ordered Inoxes from Paradise Fibers. And Susan Bates Quicksilvers or Silverados, just to compare. But I think I have most everything I need right here. I haven't even mentioned the inexpensive straight needles I got from different people or shops! I use the straights now mostly as stitch holders or, in the future, to lay lacework flat.

Yes, knitting is crack.

Cable, and I Don't Mean Internet

This is my first attempt at cable stitches, using Familia M yarn and 3.0mm Milward circulars 40cm long. What did I use for a cable needle? A Susan Bates Quicksilver dpn, US size 2 (2.75mm), with rubber point protectors to prevent the stitches from slipping off.

I got the classic stitch pattern "Coiled Rope", a 3x3 cable design, from the Reader's Digest Step-by-Step Guide to Sewing and Knitting (Sydney, 1993), p. 468.

Multiple of 9 sts plus 3
Rows 1 & 3: *P3, K6*, P3 [or add Row 5]
Rows 2, 4, 6: *K3, P6*, K3 [or add Row 8]
Row 5 [becomes Row 7]: *P3, sl 3 sts on cable needle and leave at back of work, K3, K3 sts from cable needle* P3

What I learned:

1. If you use a dpn as a cable needle, it ought to be slightly smaller than the working needles. This is so you won't be tugging too much at the 3 stitches on the cable needle in order to knit them. Knitting those 3 stitches will be a tad tight and uncomfortable for the knitter if the cable needle is the same size. Also, there will be no gaping holes on either side where the cable "coil" occurs (Row 5).

2. I prefer to modify the stitch pattern to be an 8-row rather than a 6-row pattern. It results in a more comfortable looking coil. This is recommended especially when you are knitting with worsted weight.

3. I made a mistake in the rightmost cable in the above photo. You can see that I missed a knit stitch and it wasn't coiled in. After that I started using point protectors on either side of the dpn, counting very carefully. Also, make sure that in Row 5, after slipping your 3 sts to the cable needle, when you knit the 3 sts on the working needle, keep your yarn source between the cable needle and the working needle. This is so that the long yarn spanning the 3 sts doesn't show in the back. It's hard to explain but you have to see it to understand what I mean.

4. To put this in the center of a scarf, for instance, a pair of coiled ropes would be a 21-st vertical motif. Three coiled ropes would be a 30-st motif. I'd have to make sure the number of stitches I cast on allows for this.

5. It's fun! There are so many cable stitches to learn! What a lovely way to create texture! But this "coiled rope" is a personal favorite. There is a "simple cable rib" that is a 2x2 cable, flatter, less bulky. Of course I am not really ready to knit an Aran sweater yet, but you never know.