WIP: Prototype Ballet Slipper

Like I usually do on weekends, I surf Ravelry and other sites for free patterns within my skill level that appeal to me. Now that I basically have top-down basic socks well in hand, I wanted to try other shapes, like Pocketbook Slippers by Lisa Vienneau and Allison Barrett. The pattern is also available here. My feet are small and narrow, and while I haven't actually started that particular pattern, I also wanted to learn knitting toe-up basic socks.

The toe-up pattern here is a mishmash of things I've learned, which I wrote to fit my own foot. While I haven't done things scientifically (as in specifically write steps down row by row as I knit them, counting and all -- I only have a shorthand index card) I can at this point give you a basic outline if you want to modify something for your own foot.

Pattern Outline:

1) Magic cast-on from Knitty, using an 80cm circular needle.

2) Toe increases.

3) About an inch of stockinette rounds from toe increases. Or your preferred shoe entry depth.

4) Divide instep stitches into 3. Knit first third with first dpn, bind off middle third, knit last third with next dpn, place heel stitches on last dpn. Dpn 4 is the working needle.

5) For instep stitches, your selvedge will always begin with a slip 1, whether knitting or purling. Knit or purl heel as usual.

6) As you work try on the slipper. Slipper body should reach up to an inch before your heel ends. Leave stitches on instep dpns unworked.

7) Round heel shaping as usual.

8) Heel flap either plain or reinforced depending on your preference (not a very deep one for my foot).

9) When it's time to join the instep stitches to the heel flap, you will notice a gap that forms between the heel flap and the instep stitches. To address that, knit together (or skp) the last stitch on the heel flap and the first stitch on the instep needles nearest. Knit 1. Turn. Knit across and do the same thing on the other side (instead of skp, p2tog). Purl 1. Turn. And so on. Just keep doing this until you knit the last of the instep stitches and are working with only 2 needles instead of 4.

10) Bind off back of slipper. Instead of cutting the yarn, do a single crochet beginning from the last bind off loop. The single crochet will go around the selvedge of the slipper.

11) Use bright contrasting yarn, add details. Present crochet chain is 18". If you want it to go around the ankles, I suggest you crochet 30".

This slipper is made up of exactly one small ball of choco brown Red Heart worsted weight acrylic yarn, plus some contrast color for decor. It took me just under 4 hours. I had to knit AND unravel AND write shorthand, and do finishing carefully. Maybe less if I memorized it already.

Notes: For my foot cast on should be about 10+10 stitches on a circular. This one is 12+12, which makes for a wide square toe. Body stitches follow a 20 instep +20 heel total.

Rewriting as I blog before the lunch break. Will do the other slipper tonight after dinner. With the 30" chain to go around the ankle. Joy wants to wear it at the Little Gym when she plays with Lilo. Just to feel like Gymnast Mommy. As for Lilo, I still have to trace her foot. Hers will be a princessy pink.

I want to try the same thing with mercerized cotton, possibly 3 strands together. So excited!

Knitting Everywhere: At The Dentist's

I took my dad to see my dentist last Thursday. While he was having a tooth extracted I whipped out my Susan Bates 2.75mm dpns and tried to knit 40 sts around evenly. My first attempt was the night before; it was full of holes and ladders. I ripped it out and started the whole thing from scratch.

It's kind of difficult to knit Continental while holding 4 spiky objects. But I was determined to give it a try. With knitting, the more often I practice the better I get. Better as in less holes. Since I got into sock knitting I wanted to try the different methods. So far Magic Loop is the most efficient method for me, although I want to try Cat Bordhi's sock knitting on 2 short circulars.

I was at the clinic for 2 whole hours and didn't gain much headway. Dr. Elaine was enchanted at the idea that I knitted baby socks. My 1x1 rib on the dpns looked like they could put an eye out or two. I put it away and took out the Knitpicks circulars and actually finished a quarter inch worth of work by the time my dad was settling his bill.

We have a follow-up appointment next Monday. Hopefully I'll have something easier to do and more glamorous looking in my bag by then.

Cable, and I Don't Mean Internet

This is my first attempt at cable stitches, using Familia M yarn and 3.0mm Milward circulars 40cm long. What did I use for a cable needle? A Susan Bates Quicksilver dpn, US size 2 (2.75mm), with rubber point protectors to prevent the stitches from slipping off.

I got the classic stitch pattern "Coiled Rope", a 3x3 cable design, from the Reader's Digest Step-by-Step Guide to Sewing and Knitting (Sydney, 1993), p. 468.

Multiple of 9 sts plus 3
Rows 1 & 3: *P3, K6*, P3 [or add Row 5]
Rows 2, 4, 6: *K3, P6*, K3 [or add Row 8]
Row 5 [becomes Row 7]: *P3, sl 3 sts on cable needle and leave at back of work, K3, K3 sts from cable needle* P3

What I learned:

1. If you use a dpn as a cable needle, it ought to be slightly smaller than the working needles. This is so you won't be tugging too much at the 3 stitches on the cable needle in order to knit them. Knitting those 3 stitches will be a tad tight and uncomfortable for the knitter if the cable needle is the same size. Also, there will be no gaping holes on either side where the cable "coil" occurs (Row 5).

2. I prefer to modify the stitch pattern to be an 8-row rather than a 6-row pattern. It results in a more comfortable looking coil. This is recommended especially when you are knitting with worsted weight.

3. I made a mistake in the rightmost cable in the above photo. You can see that I missed a knit stitch and it wasn't coiled in. After that I started using point protectors on either side of the dpn, counting very carefully. Also, make sure that in Row 5, after slipping your 3 sts to the cable needle, when you knit the 3 sts on the working needle, keep your yarn source between the cable needle and the working needle. This is so that the long yarn spanning the 3 sts doesn't show in the back. It's hard to explain but you have to see it to understand what I mean.

4. To put this in the center of a scarf, for instance, a pair of coiled ropes would be a 21-st vertical motif. Three coiled ropes would be a 30-st motif. I'd have to make sure the number of stitches I cast on allows for this.

5. It's fun! There are so many cable stitches to learn! What a lovely way to create texture! But this "coiled rope" is a personal favorite. There is a "simple cable rib" that is a 2x2 cable, flatter, less bulky. Of course I am not really ready to knit an Aran sweater yet, but you never know.

Stash: Sale Bin Mystery Yarns!

Welcome to sneak peeks of my stash. This is my contribution to the worldwide phenomenon of "yarn porn" (the term, my friends, is not mine, nor new, hahaha). Tactile fiber goodness!

Last Tuesday when I met the senior knitters at Lilli's Dreams boutique (see previous post) it was while looking for cable needles. I didn't find any, but I did get me some Susan Bates Quicksilver double-pointed needles in US 1 (2.25mm) , 2 (2.75mm) and 3 (3.25mm) to use just in case. I wanted to learn sock-knitting from Ines, but while I waited for the time I would be able to see my volunteer teachers on Saturday (or Tuesday), I might as well learn cable stitches...

I really wasn't looking for yarn, honest. I always say I have enough for the meantime, but for a knitter, how much is enough?

They just sort of called out to me. Lovely, anonymous, value fingering-weight yarns, in off-white, butter yellow, and dark chocolate. Butter yellow is Lilo's favorite color, and the rest of the family loves it as much. We also tend to go with the more natural looking shades. The yarn cakes (on average) went for about PhP 125 each (approx USD 2.25). I have no idea how long they are in yards or meters, since these are supposed to be factory/store close-outs. And while I'm not sure, I think they're acrylic. They have that slightly hairy shiny look about them.

When I bought them I had absolutely no idea what they'd turn into. I got 2 of each color. Maybe I'll make small shawls or scarves or maybe a simple knitted tank top...